Water Heater Replacement Parts

You’ll typically need:

• T&P (temperature & pressure) relief valve + discharge tube to safely direct overflow.
• Heating elements (electric heaters), or burner/gas valve/pilot assembly (gas models).
• Thermostat(s) for temperature regulation.
• Anode rod to prevent tank corrosion.
• Drain valve to flush sediment.
• Optional: dip tube, heat traps, expansion tank for long-term performance.

Yes—for electric heaters, many parts (elements, thermostats, anode rods, drain valves) are user-replaceable with basic tools.
However, parts like gas valves, pilot assemblies, dip tubes, expansion tanks, and gas burners may require professional installation due to plumbing and safety codes.

Pick one that matches your tank’s thread size (commonly 3/4″ NPT) and material preference (magnesium, aluminum, or zinc). Use the OEM replacement guide, or refer to your model's parts manual.

Anode rods typically last 3–5 years, or more in soft water, and protect the tank lining.

These kits (e.g., Utilitech Tune‑Up Kit at Lowe’s) include essentials like upper + lower elements, thermostats, gaskets, and clear instructions for DIY servicing —great for maintaining or repairing electric heaters.

Replace individual parts (like elements, thermostats, anode rods, valves) if they're malfunctioning or worn.

Consider a full heater replacement if:

• The tank is corroded, leaking, or over 10–12 years old.
• Repair costs approach the $600–$3,500 range depending on heater type.

• A thermal expansion tank is required on closed-loop systems to prevent pressure spikes.
• Heat traps on inlet/outlet lines help reduce standby heat loss.
• Pan & drain line beneath the tank are often required by code to manage leaks.

• Flush the tank annually to remove sediment.
• Check/replace the anode rod every 3–5 years.
• Test the T&P valve every few months to ensure safety.